The Way: Basque Country

We are currently Pamplona. What I have so far learned: I’m more out of shape than I thought. People as a rule are kind. I would never tire of the delicious food here. And I have truly and deeply missed this place.

We began walking in St Jean Pied de Port in France. During a very steep climb we had magnificent views, animal encounters, sunshine, and lots of good companionship. Jacob was a beast going up the hills. He was and is very patient with his older, less “beastly’ family members. I'm very glad he took the time to come with us.

About 3/4 up the mountains but before the Napoleon Pass is Alburgue Borda. It was once the home of a sheep herder and his wife. When he passed away, the wife sold the property to the current owner, Laurent, in 2019. Laurent performed a complete renovation and today there are sleeping arrangements for 16. In the main sleeping area there are 3 rooms of four beds each with outlets and curtains. We were treated to a communal dinner. Laurent is a wonderful host and takes great care of his guests. If you want to see pictures or reserve yourself a bed, check out https://www.aubergeborda.com/

The next morning dawned misty and cold . We were actually high enough in elevation to be in the cloud layer. The air stayed wet, foggy and cold the entire day. We walked over the Napoleon Pass in the mist. Visibility was at most 20feet. When we reached the border between France and Spain, there is only a cattle gate. We were greeted be a herd of mares and their newborn foals. The pictures do not due justice to the size of these horses, and they had no fear of humans. We really enjoyed the encounter.

As the wind picked up we actually rested for a time in an emergency shelter cabin. Tim was not feeling well. We believe now he was suffering from altitude sickness. But eventually we made our way to the monastery of Roncesvalles. In our trip in 2022, we stayed in the monastery albergue. This time we chose the hotel side of the building. Our room was actually a 2-bedroom apartment. The hot water in the shower felt wonderful! This is the hotel link: https://hotelroncesvalles.roncesvalles.es/

In the night Tim developed a fever. In the morning, so he could rest, he taxied ahead to Zubiri while Jake walked with me.

The path to Zubiri is mostly forest. We passed a cross monument before the little town of Burgette. At that spot, 6 young women were burned as witches in the 1525. The place had a really dark, somber energy.

The Villiage of Burgette was made famous by Ernest Hemingway during his visits to fish for brook trout. We went over many beautiful little streams on the path, clear and full of fast moving rapids.

After leaving Burgette Jacob and I were nearly flattened by a procession of cattle moving on the road from one pasture to another. We also saw a young eagle in a field tearing into a meal it had caught.

We met up to stay the night in Zubiri at a renovated Basque home. The house was built in 1602. Heavy stone walls, thick beamed ceilings and shuttered windows made for a quiet rest. The link to the house is https://www.txantxorena.com/en/

Since Tim was still not 100% in strength, the next day we stopped at Larrasoaña at Alburgue San Nicholas. We visited the medieval church, then enjoyed lunch. The sole cafe in Larrasoaña is run by a Basque gentleman who has a picture of Geronimo on the wall behind the counter. The Basques identify with native Americans, because they have fought to keep the cultural identity separate from Spain. He plays American 70’s music in the cafe. We were served the best roast chicken I’ve ever eaten. And he gave nephew Jacob deep heartfelt advice about being fully present in the Camino. It was a wonderful visit. https://en.nicelocal.es/navarra/shops/supermercado_amari_denda/

Next morning we set out for Pamplona. It was hot and sunny, and that sunshine made our walk more strenuous. We made a stop at the church of San Stephan It is a medieval church built in the eleventh century. You are allowed to climb the 57 steps up to the bell tower. Jacob rang the bell, the oldest in Navarre. It was cast and milled in brass and had a wonderful sound. My ears I think are still ringing! https://www.senditur.com/en/population/zabaldika/

I hope you have enjoyed this entry!

Now we are on a rest day in Pamplona. Tomorrow we move on to more adventures. Burn Camino!